Hi guys - just found out that you need to re-torque your tires when you rotate or change one out. In all my years I've never heard of this but it makes sense and the manual confirms it. According to the manual, the torque requirements for 20inch tires is 79 to 94 ft.lbs. Seems like a pretty wide range. Anyone know what the target torque number should be? Anyone have experience wit this ?
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Torque requirements
- Thread starter Retroguy
- Start date
Hi guys - just found out that you need to re-torque your tires when you rotate or change one out. In all my years I've never heard of this but it makes sense and the manual confirms it. According to the manual, the torque requirements for 20inch tires is 79 to 94 ft.lbs. Seems like a pretty wide range. Anyone know what the target torque number should be? Anyone have experience wit this ?
Nearly all tire shops recommend a recheck of torque after 50-100 miles. Head guy at one shop told me it’s really to scare the workers to make sure they don’t leave any loose lug nuts. Happened to my dad and brother. Both could have crashed.
Be that as it may, if you re torque yourself, it should be done with the wheel off the ground. If laden with 1,000 pounds per corner, the measurement is for all practical purposes useless.
Be that as it may, if you re torque yourself, it should be done with the wheel off the ground. If laden with 1,000 pounds per corner, the measurement is for all practical purposes useless.
I’ll add, in all my years of re checking torque, I’ve never had to make an adjustment. Additionally, a range of 79-94 is very odd. Of the owners manuals that mention it, I’ve never seen a range. All manuals I’ve ever seen state a single number When I get a KT and rotation is needed, I’ll set my wrench at 90.
Back when I was a kid/teen 40 years ago, nobody used a torque wrench. You used the X lug nut wrench and tightened by feel “that feels about right”. Never had a wheel fall off or be too difficult to remove.
Back when I was a kid/teen 40 years ago, nobody used a torque wrench. You used the X lug nut wrench and tightened by feel “that feels about right”. Never had a wheel fall off or be too difficult to remove.
I’ll add, in all my years of re checking torque, I’ve never had to make an adjustment. Additionally, a range of 79-94 is very odd. Of the owners manuals that mention it, I’ve never seen a range. All manuals I’ve ever seen state a single number When I get a KT and rotation is needed, I’ll set my wrench at 90.
Back when I was a kid/teen 40 years ago, nobody used a torque wrench. You used the X lug nut wrench and tightened by feel “that feels about right”. Never had a wheel fall off or be too difficult to remove.
Back when I was a kid/teen 40 years ago, nobody used a torque wrench. You used the X lug nut wrench and tightened by feel “that feels about right”. Never had a wheel fall off or be too difficult to remove.
Hi guys - just found out that you need to re-torque your tires when you rotate or change one out. In all my years I've never heard of this but it makes sense and the manual confirms it. According to the manual, the torque requirements for 20inch tires is 79 to 94 ft.lbs. Seems like a pretty wide range. Anyone know what the target torque number should be? Anyone have experience wit this ?
Hi guys - just found out that you need to re-torque your tires when you rotate or change one out. In all my years I've never heard of this but it makes sense and the manual confirms it. According to the manual, the torque requirements for 20inch tires is 79 to 94 ft.lbs. Seems like a pretty wide range. Anyone know what the target torque number should be? Anyone have experience wit this ?
Yes Retro, I completely understand your confusion on the torque.Whats really done in the golden days..
But technically you were doing it without knowing or possibly knowing?
The tire iron X is a specific size in length for a reason. If you were to look at a torque scale youd see at so long ex 12" gives typically between 60-100ftLbs plus if your stronger you might be able to squeeze 150ft/lbs. And thats going to be different when you stand on it to break it loose. You'd be ablebto get body weight plus bounce weight.
Now the reason why it varies for torque is due to where you have steel wheels or aluminum. This is because aluminum is softer. Or it can be based of the type of lug nut style ex. Flanged/Acorn/taper
Also other factors would be on the wheel style ex. Hub piloted, stud piloted
These Telluride's use acorn style/tapered/cone how ever you want to describe a bevel.
Also every fastener has a breaking point.
They also have a stretch point and a point that it stretches and doesn't return to normal. These are all based off the diameter and grading of fasteners ex. Grade 3 general use not very strong
Grade 8 commercial/industrial grade very strong
So depending on what size studs and how many you have will determine the amount of force required to clamp properly . Without stretching the threads making it difficult to remove nuts later and potentially cracking or breaking the stud off.
I see it regularly working in the industry.
But I totally get it.. and I think the one post about the scare tactic to prevent loose nuts is on to something. Covers your ass when insurance asks why the wheels fell off or a customer asking and then its also piece of mind its all tight and good